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Ryan Dunleavy with Galapagos Tortoise

Trip report: Galápagos from a First-Timer’s Point of View

May 24, 2017 |

From the Field

| by Lindsay Taulbee

Holbrook’s Ryan Dunleavy recently accompanied a Road Scholar group traveling to the Galápagos Islands as part of RS program #6043, “The Galapagos: Cultural and Natural History.” In this interview, Ryan shares his experience from a first-timer’s perspective.

Briefly describe the trip.

We arrived into Quito, where we saw a copious amount of Quito’s history in a short amount of time, including the colonial district, the Convento De San Francisco, Iglesia del Compañía de Jesus, and Guayasamín Art Museum.

Iglesia de La Compania de Jesus by Ryan Dunleavy

Of course, the highlight of the entire trip was the Galápagos Islands.  We arrived at the hot, arid climate of Baltra Island and immediately crossed the channel to transfer to the highlands of Santa Cruz.  Within an hour, the landscape abruptly changed from arid to full of vegetation and wildlife. We were greeted by giant tortoises, and walked through a long lava tunnel. 

At Puerto Ayora we boarded the boat and set sail. In addition to Baltra and Santa Cruz, the islands we visited throughout the trip included Fernandina, Isabela, Santiago, and North Seymour. If the remarkable varied geology wasn’t enough, the next six days I felt like I was in a nature documentary.

Marine iguanas by Ryan Dunleavy

What kind of wildlife did you see?

Each island we visited appeared to be characterized by distinct wildlife. Fernandina Island was the prime habitat for marine iguanas, while Santiago Island hosted white-tip reef sharks. To see it all, North Seymour Island is the place.  During the spring months, it is the perfect time to witness Magnificent Frigatebirds and Blue-footed Boobies conducting their courtship rituals to attract other mates. It was a great sight to see in person.

What was your favorite place you visited?

My favorite place was Tagus Cove, which we visited on day six. It was probably the highlight of the entire trip, in my opinion. We hiked Darwin Lake trail, which took about two hours roundtrip, and you get the see the scenic overlook at the top, where you have a gorgeous view of Isabela Island and the exterior of Darwin Volcano in the distance. It’s very rewarding.

Tagus Cove by Ryan Dunleavy

How would you describe the guides?

We had two guides, one on mainland Ecuador and one during our cruise. Both were very knowledgeable and passionate about their country. On the mainland, from the short times we had on the bus, our guide was sharing information with us the whole time; she was a wealth of information. Our guide in the Galápagos was from Santa Cruz Island, which he called “the best island.”

Do you have any recommendations to help travelers prepare?

Upon arrival in Quito, I felt the altitude immediately. Pretty much right when I got into customs, I felt like my head was inflating like a balloon. Definitely be prepared to drink lots of (bottled) water to combat the effects of altitude sickness. Also, if you’re prone to motion sickness, pack motion sickness medicine, as the seas can get rough at times. Lastly, I would add it’s important to get plenty of rest and try to take it slow your first day there. 

What were some other highlights?

Almost every night after dinner I went upstairs to feel the tranquility of the atmosphere around me.  The night sky in open water is better than any planetarium.  I also enjoyed the cruise around Urbina Bay, where you get to see the landscape and geology of Isabela Island, which was phenomenal. And learning about the giant tortoise breeding center and their conservation work was very informative. You spend a little bit of time there understanding their mission and their processes to ensure the conservation of these species.

Ryan Dunleavy with tortoise shell

The experience altogether was amazing. I never thought I would get to witness the happenings of the capital city of Ecuador, or see the inflated gular sac on a Magnificent Frigatebird.

To see the Galápagos for yourself on an itinerary similar to the above, Holbrook is featuring a special post-holiday departure November 23-December 3, 2017. This small boat adventure aboard the Galaxy II catamaran is perfect for couples, families, or small groups.


All photos by Ryan Dunleavy


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